It is very hot in Granada where I have spent the past four days.
Yesterday I had a great day.I walked around the city in the morning and then in the afternoon went on a ¨lancha¨to visit the Isletas around Granada...there are about 140 of them off a small peninsula...the same peninsula that I cycled through the previous day.It is difficult getting a good price being solo and I didnºt want to go on a tour.Eventually I made a deal with a tour outfit with whom I had rented the bicycle the day before and he arrange for me to go with his younger brother for three hours..cost $20 American.I was the only one so I got to speak,or attempt,to speak Spanish for while.Most of the islands are owned by super rich Nicaraguans ,Americans Germans and the like.Most of the islands are no bigger than our Vancouver property and have nice sea walls,palm trees and another type of tree that has huge trunk and enormous branches cascading over the water.The lagos is two meters higher than normal and many of the yards are flooded.I saw many different types of birds..one in particular exposed a brilliant yellow breast and under wing when it was in flight and nested in large nests.There was even an islet that had monkeys on it.It was a bit upsetting as the monkey island was so flooded only a few rocks protruded and there couldn't have been more than seven or eight palm and banana trees n it.The boat guy said that the monkeys swim to a nearby island to get food.A case example of how animals are being driven by development from their habitat.
After my boat trip I returned to the town square where at 6pm there was a traditional/folk dance show scheduled a local dance school.All the dancers were young...about 50 in all ranging from ages 7 to late teens early twenties...good mix of males & females.The girls wore brilliantly coloured long dresses which they held up arms length to display colour as they turned their shoulders this way and that.Some of the steps were more complicated than others but nothing as sophisticated as you folks tap.The men wore straw cowboy hats ..white pants and variously coloured shirts .They appeared to have more complicated steps...some entailing a series of stomps..and they used a lot of arm movement.I really enjoyed it and thought of you and the girls and all the shows you have put on.The audience which was largely Nicaraguans...loved the show and confirmed my belief that everyone is moved by dance.I had to laugh though as many people were standing up and taking flash fotos and their was a general hum of people talking throughout the show.The tech people needed you as a stage hand as there were a number of glitches and mistiming...but hey...all in all it was great.I went to bed early however the street was alive with song and parting all night.A computer band with a karaoke type singer blared all evening...he was quite good I thought but I wasn't in the mood to go out and drink more coffee and fruit smoothies...
For a few evenings I hung out with this English fellow and his six week New Zealand girlfriend but I felt like a third wheel and besides they were drinking a lot and I was simply talking sociology and politics with him and I could see his girlfriend wasn't amused so I avoided them last night.
I really like Nicaragua and would like to have more time to explore some of the islands..Omotepe and San Carlos where you can take a river boat to the sea.I might just return.I was wrong about Granada being where most expats are..I believe it is Leon and vicinity's which also apparently is quite colonial .Many volunteers around there.
I can't believe the number of working horses here....the small espanol variety.Volcanoes seem to be looming in the distance everywhere and yes it is hot...I,m sweating now.The showers in the hotel don't need hot water as it just comes out luke warm anyway..you want a cold shower.
Tomorrow I catch the 6:30 am bus to San Jose.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Granada
Just a quick note to report that all is well.I arrived in Granada with no issues other than being over charged by the cabbie in Managua.I found a nice hotel in Granada..hospedaje Cocibolca.$15 a night.The city is absolutely beautiful being alongside Lagos Nicaragua.The central part of the city (pop around 70,000) is full of old buildings going back 3 to 4 and sometimes 500 years.It is the oldest city in Nicaragua and via boat one can sail to the south of the lake and take a river that will lead to the Caribbean coast.This splendor has been its undoing in the past as pirates have frequently entered the river ...sailed up it to the lake and sacked Granada..City was founded in 1530s.It is like being in old Quebec City only on a larger grander scale.The facades of the colonial structures are painted bright colours with grand balconies looking down onto to the streets.Unlike Guatemala, the streets and sidewalks are wide and there isn't as much bustle other than the market and central park.I have been in so many beautiful churches I am worried I may convert.They are still celebrating Santa Maria and the other day I entered two churches just to list to the music and rest.In the church facing the central park I sat in one of the side knaves and listened to women, children, monks and a few men singing over and over again the chorus to some song that went on and on and just when I thought it had finished people would raise their arms ,finger their beads and launch into yet another vigorous round.It was like listening to Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah over and over again.Like I said...I could have joined the monastery right away if they had had a recruitment officer nearby.
Yesterday I rented a bike and went along the lake and into the woods all the way to Puerto Asese.On the way back I took a diversion off the paved rod onto a extremely rough...sandy rocky road all the way to this small pueblo called El Dimante.On the way to El Daimante I passed a heard of goats and several cattle being driven by a cowboy on horseback.A number of horse drawn wagons trotted by as well as the occasional guy on bicycle and a few Nicaraguan chicken buses.I bought a fresh coconut off a woman vendor alongside the road( I had to wake her up as she was sleeping on a mat with a baby) struck a straw in it and drank the juice up eagerly.
Yesterday I rented a bike and went along the lake and into the woods all the way to Puerto Asese.On the way back I took a diversion off the paved rod onto a extremely rough...sandy rocky road all the way to this small pueblo called El Dimante.On the way to El Daimante I passed a heard of goats and several cattle being driven by a cowboy on horseback.A number of horse drawn wagons trotted by as well as the occasional guy on bicycle and a few Nicaraguan chicken buses.I bought a fresh coconut off a woman vendor alongside the road( I had to wake her up as she was sleeping on a mat with a baby) struck a straw in it and drank the juice up eagerly.
Managua
What a day.I walked around Managua despite the frequent warnings ..perigroso..ladrones...I started around 9am and walked up Loma de Tiscapa ..an old volcanic hill in the central part of the city from which you can see all around with Lago Managua to the north and the city spread all around.It used to be the site where the former dictatorial Somoza family resided before earthquakes and revolutions destroyed it years ago.There is a picturess circular lake hundreds of feet down in the crater below a little smaller than Laguna Chicibal outside of Xela that I went to weeks ago.I stayed up there for over an hour viewing the city below when at noon hour the city exploded with fireworks.In every direction below the sky erupted in fire and smoke .It was like a war going on.There is some sort of fiesta happening and much to my chagrin I discovered later that all the museums were closed.
Not to be deterred I walked down and north to the lake where as I expected,according to the Lonely Planet guide book,to see the ruins of the former city destroyed by a major earthquake 40 of so,mas o menus anos pasada.years ago.It was quite eerie.A gigantic old cathedral stood gutted in the old central square like it was part of an old science fiction futuristic movie set.They decided not to rebuild in the central part due to the many fault lies that transect it.There are still many statues of former heroes and the old government palace Now the museum) but east west and south are either cleared and and housing families in small tickie tackie concrete brick houses or the home of squatters living in the still standing derelict buildings.As I was walking about at least on three occasions I was stopped by either security people or concerned families warning about the dangers of robbers.There were certainly many groups of men lingering about but I figured it was a holiday so no worry.Also there were streams of families cruising the streets and heading for the lake shore .Anyway...close to a park and squatter building there was a section dedicated to the end of all the fighting which although only 30 or so years old was virtually deserted and starting to be overgrown.Some Mexican artists had reconfigured the area into some type of art expression .In one part...where the government had ceremoniously buried thousands of weapons to symbolize the end of the war you could actually see old rifle buts and barrels sticking out of the dirt and rock alongside a rusting overgrown tank.It was kind of spooky and since there were squatters residing all around I got out quick.
The lake front has numerous bars and discos blaring out music and offering litres of bear for 30 cents but being alone and on the wagon I avoided temptation.In any case the music was really loud and I would have been out of place as it appeared only young Nicaraguan couples were imbibing.Also..the lake front is really under developed and all you could see were choppy waves and distant mountains.Again I didn't see any westerner types as I figure they have all gone to Granada ..the old colonial city on Lagos Nicaraua where there are beautiful volcanic islands and numerous expats living.I might go there tomorrow.
I tried to find a small museum where apparently are housed footprints of a group of people walking 6,000 years ago.They were apparently preserved in ash from a volcanic eruption that has been dated to that time.Anyway..even though I figured it would be closed I set out to find it anyway but got diverted by following a guy on his bicycle and a young boy with a machete herding 20 or more goats through the streets southwest of the lake.It was quite amusing to see how they navigated the goats through traffic and away from fronts yard bits of grass.I eventually gave up the search when a family warned me of robbers .
It is interesting to see horse drawn carts going along with the traffic .Horses are still a big part of transportation here.
OK ..I'm hungry and should find a restaurant nearby.I'm sending this EMAIL from the hotel .They have an Internet station in the courtyard with a spot to lounge about.As I write the family is nearby watching some sort of action movie on TV.Fireworks are continuing to erupt all about.Another thing about Nicaragua ..actually in Central America in total...is the high level of security.The hotel gate is locked all the time.Someone always seems to be there to answer ones call to be let in.As you walk down the street all the windows are barred and doors heavily gated.Lots of army types and security people milling about as well.I also noticed more people asking for money here than in Guatemala .
Not to be deterred I walked down and north to the lake where as I expected,according to the Lonely Planet guide book,to see the ruins of the former city destroyed by a major earthquake 40 of so,mas o menus anos pasada.years ago.It was quite eerie.A gigantic old cathedral stood gutted in the old central square like it was part of an old science fiction futuristic movie set.They decided not to rebuild in the central part due to the many fault lies that transect it.There are still many statues of former heroes and the old government palace Now the museum) but east west and south are either cleared and and housing families in small tickie tackie concrete brick houses or the home of squatters living in the still standing derelict buildings.As I was walking about at least on three occasions I was stopped by either security people or concerned families warning about the dangers of robbers.There were certainly many groups of men lingering about but I figured it was a holiday so no worry.Also there were streams of families cruising the streets and heading for the lake shore .Anyway...close to a park and squatter building there was a section dedicated to the end of all the fighting which although only 30 or so years old was virtually deserted and starting to be overgrown.Some Mexican artists had reconfigured the area into some type of art expression .In one part...where the government had ceremoniously buried thousands of weapons to symbolize the end of the war you could actually see old rifle buts and barrels sticking out of the dirt and rock alongside a rusting overgrown tank.It was kind of spooky and since there were squatters residing all around I got out quick.
The lake front has numerous bars and discos blaring out music and offering litres of bear for 30 cents but being alone and on the wagon I avoided temptation.In any case the music was really loud and I would have been out of place as it appeared only young Nicaraguan couples were imbibing.Also..the lake front is really under developed and all you could see were choppy waves and distant mountains.Again I didn't see any westerner types as I figure they have all gone to Granada ..the old colonial city on Lagos Nicaraua where there are beautiful volcanic islands and numerous expats living.I might go there tomorrow.
I tried to find a small museum where apparently are housed footprints of a group of people walking 6,000 years ago.They were apparently preserved in ash from a volcanic eruption that has been dated to that time.Anyway..even though I figured it would be closed I set out to find it anyway but got diverted by following a guy on his bicycle and a young boy with a machete herding 20 or more goats through the streets southwest of the lake.It was quite amusing to see how they navigated the goats through traffic and away from fronts yard bits of grass.I eventually gave up the search when a family warned me of robbers .
It is interesting to see horse drawn carts going along with the traffic .Horses are still a big part of transportation here.
OK ..I'm hungry and should find a restaurant nearby.I'm sending this EMAIL from the hotel .They have an Internet station in the courtyard with a spot to lounge about.As I write the family is nearby watching some sort of action movie on TV.Fireworks are continuing to erupt all about.Another thing about Nicaragua ..actually in Central America in total...is the high level of security.The hotel gate is locked all the time.Someone always seems to be there to answer ones call to be let in.As you walk down the street all the windows are barred and doors heavily gated.Lots of army types and security people milling about as well.I also noticed more people asking for money here than in Guatemala .
San Salvador
I arrived in San Salvador Saturday night and tomorrow I leave for Managua.I'm glad I called ahead and reserved a hotel room as I find San Salvador so confusing,congested and outrageously busy that I would have been hopelessly lost upon arrival.Yesterday I walked all around town visiting the main plaza...I was so tired I even dropped into the central church and listened to mass for a while...went to an anthropology museum,art gallery etc..I even navigated the bus system.The buses are crazy here...they hardly stop to let you off and speed ahead lurching all along throwing you about in the cabin...I crashed into a poor woman an child.El Salvador isn't as colorful or as cultural as Guatemala...very westernized..MacDonalds,Wendy's,BurgerKing ,KFC and Pizza Huts abound...and big shiny spacious ones at that.Lots of car dealerships and malls....and wide sidewalks...When you can hear over the smoke belching rumbling buses and blaring music you can hear lots of birds...especially one that sounds like a cross between a cuckoo bird and a owl...Food is cheap here( I love the pupusas) but I had to search for a cheaper hotel .First two nights I spent $30/night a the Hotel Florida but this morning I moved to the $12/ night San Carlos as it is beside the Tika Bus station and I leave at 4:45 am...
This afternoon I wandered through a bustling market...it was like a rabbit warren with a labyrinth of stalls with thousands of venders literally grabbing at my arm.
It is very hot here..at least over 30 and sunny.I had to buy a baseball cap the other day.
The country side is not as hilly and mountainous as Guatemala...The bus wound its way through wide lush,green valleys with sugar cane fields on the side fields and volcanic conical mountains in the distance.,The roads are lined with cocoa nut and banana trees.
I find I can get by with my Spanish but I,m sure I sound horrible.
Hey...I got a hair cut today...$1.00.I even cut my mustache off but I regret it as I look weird. Mind you whose to know here.
Graduation Day - Spanish School
Well...I am sitting in the Celas Maya Internet room waiting for the 8pm graduation party. I have written a little speech to say when I receive my certificate.Tomorrow at 7:30 am I leave Xela for Guatemala City and then transfer to a bus to El Salvador and San Salvador City. .I arrive in San Salvador around 7pm. I expect that it is warmer there as they asked me if I wanted an air conditioned room.No way...I'm freezing in Xela.I will be sorry to leave Xela as I feel comfortable (outside of the chilly weather) here. It is an interesting small city .Had my final instruction.We went over asking for help in Spanish...maybe the teacher knows something I don't.
I am hearing a lot of good things abut Costa Rica...apparently the rain forest jungle and animals are spectacular.One fellow told me you need to go into the forest in a small group and stay still for 15 to 30 minutes before the forest becomes live and the birds,small animals,monkeys and sloths come out.
I am hearing a lot of good things abut Costa Rica...apparently the rain forest jungle and animals are spectacular.One fellow told me you need to go into the forest in a small group and stay still for 15 to 30 minutes before the forest becomes live and the birds,small animals,monkeys and sloths come out.
Horseback ride - Santa Maria Volcano
Hola...went on a horseback ride this afternoon. Just returned. Seven of us went to a small village outside of Xela and went through some fields of corn over a bridge down a dusty street of walled houses and then on to a trail around a treed hill. In the distance you could see Santa Maria volcano..At one point we all started galloping down the road when suddenly the lead horse veered off the road through a barbed wire fence and into a field.The horse got caught up in the barbed wire fence and fell throwing the rider off. Fortunately he was not hurt.The second horse upon seeing the first fall, reared up, turned and stared galloping back down the road with the panicked American girl rider holding on for dear life as she shot past me. Our guide needed to untangle the horse which eventually got back up and was OK.Two of the riders were upset and wouldn't continue however myself and the four others, including the English fellow that fell, resumed our riding.It was quite beautiful. I thought I was in a spaghetti western and could hear The Good ,The Bad and The Ugly theme playing in the background.We went along a dusty road by some cotton fields lined by prickly pear cacti. At various points dogs rushed out barking at us however firmly in control we rode on down a gully,along a small river then up into and through a field leading to yet another small village.We rode through the narrow streets and then to a a road leading back to the sables.When I got off the two hour ride my backside and legs were sore and I felt so light I thought I might leap into the sky.....anyway...a good day. I felt quite confident on the horse despite the other fellows spill,We all had a good laugh afterwards.
Hey...I heard that they now have another route up Mt Pacaya as the authorities thought the one we went on as too dangerous after a few tourists had been killed in the past few years.Apparently on the new route it is not possible to see the lava flow any,ore.
I have been reading the papers a lot here.There sure are a lot of murders and road accident deaths.Yesterday 19 people who were part of a crowd of seventy migrant farm workers were killed when their inebriated driver struck another truck while passing on a curve.
Apparently the language schools here are hurting because the poor American and European markets have resulted in fewer students coming.
Today in class my maestro talked a lot about her experiences in the civil war that end over ten years ago ,She recounted how a woman and her three daughters in her village were gunned down by the military after they refused the advances of the soldiers.Her 10 year old schoolmate escaped death by hiding under the bed when the soldiers burst in.Apparently the father was drunk elsewhere.She spoke of other neighbourhood men who simply disappeared...Anyway...we had a good chat in Spanish although I probably missed a lot...
Hey...I heard that they now have another route up Mt Pacaya as the authorities thought the one we went on as too dangerous after a few tourists had been killed in the past few years.Apparently on the new route it is not possible to see the lava flow any,ore.
I have been reading the papers a lot here.There sure are a lot of murders and road accident deaths.Yesterday 19 people who were part of a crowd of seventy migrant farm workers were killed when their inebriated driver struck another truck while passing on a curve.
Apparently the language schools here are hurting because the poor American and European markets have resulted in fewer students coming.
Today in class my maestro talked a lot about her experiences in the civil war that end over ten years ago ,She recounted how a woman and her three daughters in her village were gunned down by the military after they refused the advances of the soldiers.Her 10 year old schoolmate escaped death by hiding under the bed when the soldiers burst in.Apparently the father was drunk elsewhere.She spoke of other neighbourhood men who simply disappeared...Anyway...we had a good chat in Spanish although I probably missed a lot...
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